歷史推演,追溯到上世紀30年代初,一個十多歲的陳姓少年從廣東潮陽南來檳榔嶼,初來時學做了幾年洋貨,后來才在檳榔律的景貴巷口設推車攤,賣起南洋的煎蕊。由于鄰近吉寧萬山(菜市場)貨源充足,所做煎蕊冰當然新鮮,尤其椰漿更是少量用完后再取,新鮮自然美味。
再加上60年代起,由于附近的檳榔和東方兩間百貨公司興起,使得檳榔律成為檳城最熱鬧的購物商區。由于占盡地利之便,所以這攤煎蕊自然馳名開來,攤前常站滿食客把小巷擠得水泄不通。即使跨越世紀來到現在,仍然是檳榔律上一抹既“懷舊”又習以為常的經典風景。而這陳姓少年正是現任老板陳宗錦的父親陳得潘。
跟 印度人娘惹 學做煎蕊
根據陳老板的說法,其父親是跟娘惹及印度人學做煎蕊。當年娘惹精于製造煎蕊,而沿街販賣煎蕊冰的卻多是印度人。
也許在很多人的印象裡,Cendol與印度小販是“密不可分”的,所以便以為Cendol源自印度,其實大錯特錯,因為印度根本沒有類似Cendol的食物。
在某程度上,這與我初步考究的Cendol(煎蕊)起源相當接近。眾所周知,Cendol起源自印尼的爪哇島,之后再傳到新馬兩地。Cendol在印尼又稱為Dawet,傳統製法是在綠豆粉中加入染色用的斑蘭葉汁,值得注意的是材料中還摻入華人製作麵條時所用的鹼水,而且在形狀上也與客家人的老鼠粉和福建人的米苔目相近,同樣是用了篩子般的擦板,將粉糰從洞眼中搓出一條條兩頭尖尖的綠色粉條。
依據當地華人的說法,這或許是早年土生華人將米苔目本土化的一種吃法,又或是印尼人參考了上述華人粉食而變化出來的甜食;早年土生華人與印度商人一樣,常在南洋諸國經商遊走,于是Cendol便流傳開來。
至于為何冠上“潮州”呢?陳老板不諱言地說,由于早年檳島一帶在賣煎蕊的華人多是廣東人,當80年代他萌起想要將這家族生意給註冊時,第一個閃過腦際的當然就是本身的潮州籍貫,于是便以“檳榔律馳名潮州煎蕊”作為註冊商標。
這攤煎蕊有多美味,我無需在此多說,嚐過之后自然心服口服。除煎蕊外,不要忘了攤上還賣很有檳城特色的紅色“明角子”冰水和潮州人稱之“蛤殼草”,廣東人叫它“崩大碗”,馬來文稱作Pegaga植物所做成的青草汁。
大太陽底下,如果喜歡市井懷舊的感覺,可到巷口攤前,或站或蹲享受一碗冰凍清涼的煎蕊;要是嫌路邊人雜,則可移步入巷,在右側第一間店面裡還可吃到陳老板特製的檳城囉惹。
要是想要感受“賣煎蕊也有出頭天”(林冠英語)的Alfresco Cafe(露天咖啡座)感覺,那就走向不遠處的Komtar Walk吧!煎蕊少不了,再來一碗甜酸適度的亞參叻沙,細心比較一下白綠兩種粉條的精彩配搭。
Perhaps in many people's impression, Cendol and Indian hawkers are "inextricably linked", so we thought Cendol from India, in fact totally wrong, since India did not like Cendol food.
To a certain extent, this is my initial fancy Cendol is very close to the origin. As we all know, Cendol originated in Indonesia's Java island, and then spread to Singapore and Malaysia after the two places. Cendol in Indonesia, also known as Dawet, the traditional system of law is to add in the mung bean flour used for spot dyeing blue leaf juice, it is noteworthy that the incorporation of the Chinese material is also used when making noodles alkaline, but also in shape and Hakka mice powder and Fujian's Mi Taimu similar, the same is to use a sieve-like rub board, the powder from the hole in the eyes Cuochu a group of two sharp green vermicelli.
Basis of the local Chinese to say, this may be early-born Chinese in the localization of a Mi Taimu eat, or reference to the above-mentioned Chinese Indonesians change eating out pink sweets; early-born Chinese and Indian merchants, as often in Southeast Asia Asian countries walk in business, so Cendol they spread.
As to why the Crown to "Chaozhou" mean? Mr. Chen does not deny that, due to the vicinity of Penang Island in the early years of selling fried Rui mostly Cantonese Chinese, when the 80 years he Mengqi want to register this family business, the first mind as a flash of course, is itself Chaozhou origin, so the government, "Chaozhou famous Penang cendol" as a registered trademark.
This share of cendol how delicious, I do not have this to say, tasted followed by natural convinced. In addition to cendol, do not forget to stand sits in Penang still has not sold very distinctive red "next slot" ice and Chaozhou called the "clam-shell grass," the Cantonese call it "Centella asiatica" Malay called Pegaga plant caused by grass juice.
Under the sun, if you like the feeling of nostalgia streets and marketplaces can head for the corner Tan Qian, stand or squat to enjoy a bowl of cool cendol; if the street were too mixed, you can move into the lane on the right side first shop where the boss can also eat a special Chen Penang Rojak.
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